M&N Sandwich Shop secures itself as one of Lincoln’s ‘hidden treasures’

Nestled between a couple smoke shops on the northeast corner of 27th and Randolph Streets, M&N Sandwich Shop has solidified itself as a local hidden treasure. In Lincoln's oversaturated market for sandwich shops, M&N's Chicago-style sandwiches are criminally overlooked.

After making my way down a snow-covered back alley, I pulled into M&N's parking lot with an empty stomach, eager to get my hands on one of owner Norm Kusinski's highly-touted sandwiches.

Inside, I saw Norm behind the counter sporting a thick mustache and a black baseball cap. He could easily blend in with "da bears" fan club from SNL's classic Chris Farley skit. One look at Norm and I knew he was qualified to handle my Chicago Style Sandwich.

I refrained from bringing up Ditka and ordered the Italian beef and pastrami ($6.85), complete with provolone cheese, onions and hot peppers on a Gonnella roll. Don't expect Norm to coddle you when he takes your order.

"He'll let it be known if he disagrees with your order," said Jeff Wees, a semi-regular customer of M&N Sandwich Shop. "Not that he'll scream at you, but you can definitely draw some comparisons between him and the Soup Nazi."

If you enjoy overly eccentric waiters covered in tacky pins, this may not be the best place for you.

When I sat down to wait for my sandwich, I began to take in my surroundings. Surprisingly, I couldn't find any flat screen TVs or trendy interior decorations or $5 sub promotions. M&N is not your typical sub shop.

The decor is fairly barren and reminded me of the family-owned hoagie shops from my childhood in New Jersey. One wall is covered with promotional posters for local bands and upcoming shows. In the opposite corner, a small TV running FOX News sits on top of a wooden stand and an old-school menu is hangs on the wall, looking like something out of a 90's deli.

This kind of simplicity and haphazard decor is exactly what gives M&N Sandwich its appeal. No one ever walked inside of Pickleman's or Jimmy John's expecting the best sandwich they've ever had. Not to say I don't enjoy the downtown sub shops from time to time, I do, but M&N's simplicity gives off an aura of authenticity that can only be found outside the realm of corporate establishments.

After what seemed like no time at all, Norm personally delivered my gargantuan sandwich filled to the brim with its delicious contents and topped with melted cheese. I grabbed the Gonnella bun, soaked in savory au jus and took my first bite. The explosion of flavor from the Italian beef and pastrami floored me.

The first-class meats make Planet Sub's look like spam and bologna. Appropriately seasoned with a savory kick, I would venture to say that you can't find better quality from any other sandwich in Lincoln.

The heaping amount of cheese sufficiently covers the top of the sandwich and blends well with the loads of Italian beef and pastrami. After a few bites, my teeth crunched into the hot peppers, which add incredible texture to the sandwich with a kick to be appreciated by the most daring of spicy food connoisseurs.

I finished my meal and slowly came down from cloud nine. With my newfound enthusiasm for M&N sandwiches, I had a chat with Norm to learn more about this diamond in the rough.

"I'm from Chicago," he said. "I used to visit Lincoln all the time and I would eat the sandwiches here. I figured, well, I think it needs a good restaurant. That was back in '93 when there wasn't so many restaurants like there is now."

M&N has seen its share of changes since opening in 1993. At one point, it served as a venue for local bands on weeknights. The shows provided an outlet for University of Nebraska-Lincoln underclassmen and members of AA to experience live music without the influence of alcohol.

"I was good friends with the owner of the Zoo Bar and we had a lot of blues bands," Kusinski said. "A lot of young musicians, like Kris Lager, got their start here."

Much has changed since M&N's days as a house of blues. The smoking ban killed the attendance, putting an end to the concerts and now the promotional posters are the only relics of the shop's musical history.

With the struggling economy and the overabundance of sandwich shops in Lincoln, Norm has taken a hit.

"I'm just trying to stay alive now," Kusinski said. "It's a different ballgame."

Do yourself a favor and get out to M&N Sandwich Shop to experience one of the best sandwiches in Lincoln and don't be fooled by the mundane appearance — this place has more personality than all the corporate sub shops combined.

jacksampson

@dailynebraskan.com