Fashion week has passed and the forecast for fall is set. It is going to be a dark, stormy and utterly glamorous season.
"For fall there are a lot of influences, often historic," said Barbara Trout, professor of textile, clothing and design with the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. "Influences from the 1970s and 1940s are big ones."
This season, runways and street corners alike will be filled with women dressed in glamorous, powerful outfits invoking eras gone by. Three main trends have emerged to help transition from summer to fall and then into the cold winter months.
Lady-like glamour
Suits and dresses showcasing a curvy, womanly figure were hot trends on the runways. Tailored jackets with slouchy pants complete any work wardrobe, and different styles and cuts of pants are a refreshing change from last year.
"Wide leg pants are huge for fall," said Tobias Burnham, manager of The Black Market, 1033 O St. "Skinny jeans are still going to be around for a while, but wide leg jeans and trousers look great for fall."
Think of Katherine Hepburn and her androgynous style. Lean jackets seemingly borrowed from the men's section, but with a touch of femininity. A splash of metallic, a billowy ruffle or a dash of sequins adds the right amount of glamour to any outfit.
"The feeling for fall is really a mixture of menswear and whimsical," commented Kelly Merklein, owner of Blu Velvet, 2701 N 48th St. "Designers have taken traditional fabrics and used whimsical shapes and accessories."
The sultry "Le Smoking" from Yves Saint Laurent, a tuxedo jacket cut for a woman, is the epitome of glamour this season. Worn with black stockings, heels and red lipstick, the chic jacket becomes one beguiling dress.
Military Style
The sleek and at times severe look of European military stormed the runways this fall. From somber jackets to utility boots and boxy hats, the classic military style lends an easy uniform for all occasions.
"The monochromatic look is huge for fall," Burnham said. "Dressing in the same color tone from head to toe, charcoal tones and muted greens, looks simple and classy."
To accessorize this look, oversized buckles, brass buttons, pins and, most importantly, headwear, complete the uniform.
"It's hard to know if this trend will catch on but headwear, (as in) shaped hats, not just stocking caps, are showing up a lot in the fashion press," Trout said.
Menswear also took note from the military style. Sleek suits and trim sweaters were the forefront of most runways. Slim cardigans under double breasted jackets and coats cross over from men's to women's with a structured belt and chunky scarf. But this was also seen in many men's collections.
"It is hard for guys to accessorize, but skinny ties, belts and fedoras are in for fall," Burnham said.
Vera Wang and Burberry Prorsum marched their own army of women wearing military jackets with wide belts and sturdy footwear down their runways. But don't be confused; there was no camouflage or American flags in their lineup.
A World Beat
Ethnic prints, worldly patterns and funky textures defined many shows this fall. Classic pieces in unique fabrics or contrasting colors are great for layering.
"Jackets with metallic thread, fun color combinations and of all different lengths, shapes and weights make them great transitional pieces for fall," Blu Velvet's Merklein said.
The actual production of pieces also was unique. Back from a recent trip to Milan, Trout commented on the complex textures and weaves of many pieces she saw.
"The weave structure at Prada was almost three dimensional, it actually stood up from the fabric," Trout said. "Also Prada has diffused fabric that goes from black to gray or from green to light blue in a textured weave."
Many designers gathered inspiration from around the world. Ana Sui showcased oversized cardigans in vibrant colors with long fabric necklaces. Chaikan wrapped luxurious, beaded saris around models and topped them off with simple jackets. Nicole Miller wove classic Native American patterns into wraps and paired them with sexy heels and cigarette pants. All are pieces that work from fall to winter with the addition of a layer or two.
Sweaters this season also take a cue from international climates. Long, chunky textures could survive a safari or a Russian winter.
"Luxurious, heavy knits, cable knits, wrap or pullover sweaters were everywhere in Milan," UNL's Trout said. "These can be worn over tight leggings or jeans this fall."
Oscar de la Renta kept the look chic and glamorous using ethic prints in classic shapes. A beautiful shift with oversized pearls suddenly looks downtown chic when it features a beautiful Indian pattern. Proving that trends can be combined, the fortesque shape of his dress, tailored to fit a women's body, looks worldly with the unique fabric.
